18K, 21K or 22K gold? A Dubai buyer's guide to purity, price and making charges
18K gold is 75% pure gold, 21K is 87.5% and 22K is about 91.6%. The higher the karat, the more each gram costs and the softer the metal. In Dubai, a piece of gold jewellery is priced as its weight times the day's gold rate for that karat, plus a making charge, plus 5% VAT. Gem-set designer pieces add the value of their stones.
Most of our pieces are 18K, so we'll say why we chose it. We also make pieces in other karats to order, and we'll say when 22K is the better buy.
What "karat" means
Karat measures purity in parts of 24. 24K is pure gold. 18K is 18 parts gold to 6 parts other metals, so 18 ÷ 24 = 75%. Those other metals (usually silver, copper, zinc or palladium) make the gold harder and set its colour.
| Karat | Gold content | Fineness stamp often seen | Typical use in Dubai |
|---|---|---|---|
| 24K | pure gold | 999 | Bars, coins, some very soft jewellery |
| 22K | ~91.6% | 916 | Traditional and bridal gold, plain bangles and chains |
| 21K | ~87.5% | 875 | Traditional Gulf jewellery |
| 18K | 75% | 750 | Diamond and gem-set jewellery, white and rose gold, designer pieces |
| 14K | ~58.5% | 585 | Lighter jewellery; less common in Dubai shops |
| 9K | 37.5% | 375 | Light, lower-cost jewellery; rare in Dubai shops |
Dubai gold prices per gram
On 12 October 2026, the Dubai retail gold rate was (Khaleej Times):
| Karat | AED per gram |
|---|---|
| 24K | 505.50 |
| 22K | 468.00 |
| 21K | 448.75 |
| 18K | 384.75 |
The rate changes during the day. Because 18K holds 75% gold, its gram rate sits at roughly three-quarters of the 24K rate (384.75 ÷ 505.50 ≈ 76%).
How a gold piece is priced: rate, making charge, VAT
Plain gold jewellery in Dubai's souks is usually priced as:
weight (g) × today's rate for that karat + making charge + 5% VAT
The making charge pays for design and craft: casting, chain-making, polishing, setting. Shops quote it per gram or as a fixed amount per piece, and it varies widely with the work involved. Ask for it as a separate line, and compare the total price, not just the gold rate. As one Dubai retailer told Khaleej Times when shoppers moved to 18K, "the making charges of 18K are quite higher compared to 22K". The finer work that 18K allows costs more to make.
Gem-set and designer pieces add the stones, and the stones are often worth more than the gold. Take two of our rings at that day's 18K rate:
- Interlinked Diamond Ring: about 5.6 g of 18K gold, worth about AED 2,155, with about 1.18 ct of natural diamonds. Price: AED 10,900 including VAT.
- Hidden Orbit Ring: about 2.8 g of 18K white gold, worth about AED 1,077, with a 0.50 ct GIA-certified D/VVS pear diamond and about 0.30 ct more. Price: AED 9,250 including VAT.
In both, the gold is a minority of the price. That is why our prices don't move every time the gold rate does, and why "price per gram" is the wrong yardstick for diamond jewellery.
18K vs 21K vs 22K: which should you buy?
Choose 22K or 21K when:
- you want plain, high-purity gold: bangles, chains, traditional bridal sets;
- you want as much gold as possible in the piece;
- you like the deep yellow colour.
Choose 18K when:
- the piece holds diamonds or coloured stones. The harder alloy grips claws and pavé settings more securely than 22K;
- you want white or rose gold, which only exist as alloys;
- you want fine, open or light designs that would bend in softer gold;
- you want more piece for your budget. With gold at record levels, Dubai shoppers have been moving from 22K to lighter 18K and diamond pieces (Khaleej Times; Gulf News).
Is 18K "real" gold? Yes. 18K is three-quarters pure gold by weight. It is the standard for fine diamond jewellery in much of the world.
White, yellow and rose 18K gold
All three are 75% gold. The other 25% sets the colour: more copper for rose, white metals for white gold. Our white gold is rhodium-plated for a bright white finish. Over time the plating wears and the warmer colour of the alloy shows through; re-plating restores it. Many of our designs can be made in any of the three colours on request. For example, the Star Lattice cover for WHOOP® is made in white gold as standard and in any gold colour to order.
Purity marks
When you buy, look for the fineness number stamped inside the piece: 750 for 18K, 875 for 21K, 916 for 22K. Ask the shop what other marks the piece carries.
Every Caleums piece is stamped with the purity mark for its metal. For gold that is 375 (9K), 585 (14K), 750 (18K), 875 (21K) or 916 (22K). Platinum is stamped 950 and sterling silver 925.
What we make, and what we don't
Most Caleums designs are in 18K yellow, white and rose gold or sterling silver, set with natural or lab-grown diamonds and coloured gemstones. Our partner workshop, Goldencraft, makes every piece in Dubai. To order, we also work in 9K, 14K, 21K and 22K gold (yellow, white or rose) and in platinum. For a piece set with stones, we'll usually suggest 18K or platinum, because both hold settings securely.
Browse 18K gold rings, necklaces, earrings and bracelets, or start a bespoke piece.
WHOOP® is a trademark of WHOOP, Inc. Caleums is not affiliated with or endorsed by WHOOP; the name is used only to describe which devices our covers fit.
Frequently asked questions
What percentage of gold is 18K, 21K and 22K?
18K is 75% gold, 21K is about 87.5% and 22K about 91.6%. 24K is pure gold.
Why is 18K jewellery sometimes not much cheaper than 22K?
The gold in 18K costs less per gram, but making charges for 18K are often higher, and 18K pieces often carry stones. Compare the total price, not just the gram rate.
Is 18K gold good for daily wear?
Yes. Its higher alloy content makes it harder than 22K, so it holds its shape and its stones better. That's why most diamond jewellery is made in 18K.
How is gold jewellery priced in Dubai?
Usually as weight times the day's rate for that karat, plus a making charge, plus 5% VAT. Gem-set pieces add the value of the stones.
Does Caleums make 21K or 22K jewellery?
Yes, to order. Most of our catalogue is 18K gold or sterling silver, but we also make pieces in 9K, 14K, 21K and 22K gold and in platinum. Each piece is stamped with its purity mark, for example 750 for 18K or 916 for 22K.
